Ramadan Kareem (Happy Ramadan)

The holiest month in the Muslim world is Ramadan. And it has arrived. Egypt is a country composed of 90% Muslim, so life is interestingly different at this time.

Ramadan means many things. Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset for approximately 30 days. Fasting during the month of Ramadan is one of the five pillars of faith in Islam. Fasting means abstention from food, drink (of every kind, even water), smoking, and sexual relations. It seems unfathomable that Egyptians could give up smoking since the majority of them partake in the habit. And it seems even more unimaginable to not even drink one drop of water, especially given the heat in Egypt. But thankfully, the weather has been much cooler since the day before Ramadan. Just a coincidence, you think?

Ramadan also brings an air of festivities in Egypt. It is a time of reflection and gathering with family and friends. It is traditional that Muslims will break their fast (called an Iftar) at sunset with friends and/or family. So there are invitations for the Iftar, much like our Thanksgiving and Christmas. And there are lighted lanterns (fanous - like the one in the picture below) and colored lights hung outside homes.


We had great fun last night, the first night of Ramadan, driving around looking at the various fanous around our neighborhood. Hannah was, of course, excited to see them. She even mentioned to me yesterday morning that she wanted to "do" Ramadan, to which I asked what does that mean, and she replied that she wanted to "not eat or drink like the Muslims." I told her she was too young to fast but that we would have fuul which is a bean dish that Egyptians eat at a meal before sunrise (called a Suhoor) which supposedly fills their tummies up until the Iftar. I say supposedly because we had fuul at noon and I was hungry no less than three hours later. I tell you, these Muslims have incredible stamina.

Ramadan is also a time of charity. There are tents set up randomly throughout the streets by wealthy families, companies, or churches for the exclusive purpose of feeding the poor. This is done throughout this month every night at sunset. Not a bad idea for us to adopt in the West, don't you think?

Prior to Ramadan, we were told by many sources that traffic gets absolutely psychotic from 1 to 5 in the afternoon when ravenous drivers are racing home to get ready for their iftar. I was even warned by our maid, Mona, an Egyptian Muslim, to stay off the streets between those times to prevent bodily injury. Believe me, I didn't mess around, I listened to her. Sure enough, traffic outside our windows was crazy during those times. And then at around 6 (time for iftar), the streets were eerily quiet. So to all those who claim that the traffic in Cairo never lets up -- ha! they obviously don't know everything about Egypt!